....with a bunch of accessories and a Vulcanoid metal case. All in good condition except the case needs refoamed.

Anyway, here's what I got for $20.00; cash:

Super Speed Graphic Cat. No. SS-540-R.
135mm Graflex Optar f/4.5-32 Rodenstock lens in Graphlex 1000 shutter (bulb and 1/2 to 1/1000 second).
Graflex Super Graphic Optical Viewfinder with mask for 10-exp. 120 film.
Both batteries dead, need replaced.
Two double-sided sheet film holders.
One Graflex No. 1234 Graphic 4x5 film pack adapter.
One Graflex No. 1266 Graphmatic 4x5 film holder.
One Graflex No. RH10 size (2.25x2.75) 120 roll film back.
One Graflex No. 500 Polaroid Land 4x5 film holder.
One Graflex Presslok tripod mount.
One Graflex 2-battery Graphlite flash with "Y" connecting cord.
One 5-inch and one 7-inch reflector heads.
Twelve blue Sylvania flash bulbs.
A Kodak red and yellow filter.
A dozen or two sheets of old film.
Users manual, price list, accessory manual, repair cost sheet.

Where can I get decent camera 22.5 V batteries reasonably priced?

What's all this stuff worth on the market? Approximate range is good enough.

Where can I get a manual for the flash?

It looks really neat on the shelf next to my Nikon D700 DSLR. Reminds me of the middle 1960's when I used a 2x3 Graflex taking portraits of folks and making a few bucks on the side.

Bart B.

Mike Butkus has a scan of the original manual for the Graflite flash on his website. Here's the link:
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/flashes_meters/graflite_flash/graflite_flash.htm
He asks for a well-deserved donation of $3. Mike provides a great service for users of vintage equipment.

try radio shack online for the batteries.

bartbob wrote:

What's all this stuff worth on the market? Approximate range is good enough. Bart B.

about ten to fifteen times what you paid for it.

Thanks, Billy, for the link to Butkis' manuals. I completely forgot about his web site. It's worth another 3 bucks to get one. A few for my Nikons have been acquired from his web site. Great place to get info.

And thanks, Les, for the battery buying site and the value estimate. The Graflex catalogue and price sheet that came with it had the original owners' items checked that he bought totalling a bit over $900. 'Twas purchased around 1970, I'm guessing.

Best regards,

Bart

not to compete but.... http://www.southbristolviews.com/pics/Graphic/manual-pdf/GrafliteManual.pdf
is free.

If the Graphic 1000 shutter takes more than 2 to 3 ounces if pressure to turn the cocking ring or to move the press to focus lever the shutter is in need of a Clean and Lube, nothing to adjust. Continual usage will result in damage to the shutter.

Read this post: http://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=5880

Thanks, 45PPS, for the info on the shutter. It takes about as much pressure as you mention as far as I know. But it compares favorable to the trigger on my rimfire match rifle that's set to about 3 ounces. Iris blades are clean and have no oil/grease smears.

Regards,

Bart

I doubt you will ever see any traces of oil or grease on the shutter or aperture blades as so little is used in this shutter. As long as the cocking motion is smooth throughout all should be good but if it seems a little rough like a few grains of fine sand being ground then service it.

IMO:
Super Speed with properly functioning 1000 speed shutter, clean lens, matching factory cam, clean body, fully functioning electronics $325-$375; ready to restore condition $225-$250
Grafmatic film holder with 6 unbent spetums, working properly $75-$125
RH10 clean and functioning properly $50-$100
Presslock $25
Double sided film holders $5-$10 each
Series VI (6) filters $5-$10 each
Good Y cord ????
Graflite w/reflectors/flash bulbs ????
Film pack adapter and possibly the Polaroid 500-paper weights
Eveready 412 battery $13.99 each at
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3417565

With good batteries installed and battery door removed connect the leads of an AMP meter to the battery terminals observing correct polarity. Current will rise to 10 to 15 mA as the capacitors charge then the current should return to zero after 10 to 15 seconds. Any current draw after this time indicates leaking capacitors and the batteries should only be installed when the camera is in use to prevent the batteries from being run down prematurely.

Protect your investment,even if it is minimal.

Tell me where I can get such a bargain.

45PSS, thanks for the info on testing the electronic shutter cap's. I'll run that test in the next day or so.

When I tested the Graflite flash with new batteries and pressing its red button, the bulb in it appeared to have a very short, faint burst of light that was very small. I'm now wondering if the contacts in it have corroded such that current's dropped way down. Might try taking it apart and doing some resistance checks with my ohmmeter.

Used you posted line to Radio Shack's site for the battery; thanks for providing that. They're near $14 each plus shipping. Found another site on Ebay that has new ones for about $24 a pair including shipping.

All this aside, it's kind of fun playing around with this old monster. In checking different web sites for info, one mentioned that Graflex 1000 shutter may be the weakest part of the system. This guy thinks they break often, especially if used at the 1/1000th speed. He also says that shutter should be set to B or 0 when the camera's put away.

Been trying to find information on the lens; 135mm Graflex Optar f/4.5-32 Rodenstock. Wondering how it compares to others such as a quality rating from 1 to 10. Nothing found so far, but I get the impression it's pretty good. My guess is somewhere between 5 and 10.

Best wishes,

Bart

Quote:

When I tested the Graflite flash with new batteries and pressing its red button, the bulb in it appeared to have a very short, faint burst of light that was very small. I'm now wondering if the contacts in it have corroded such that current's dropped way down.

Bart;

The result you describe sounds like a primer only burn of a defective flashbulb. Many Sylvania flashbulbs had a "blue dot" on the top of the bulb that would turn pink if the bulb was defective due to age and/or damage. While contact corrosion is possible, a defective flashbulb, especially old ones, is a much more likely cause of the problem you report.

There should be battery voltage to the bulb socket (and extension outlet if one exists) for the entire time that the red button is held down. If you are testing with a volt meter the probes may be inserted into the extension outlet (- on top + on the bottom) which will avoid the necessity of using three hands to perform the test.

C. Henry

http://www.southbristolviews.com/

Graflex manuals link on the left. I provided Rich the scans for the Graflite and Grafmatic service manuals.

The Graphic 1000 shutter apparently did not hold up to heavy pro usage like conventional shutters, photographers and salesmen treat them like conventional shutters and the "use it until it slows down" does not apply to the Graphic. The Graphic 1000 will fail at the faster speeds quicker than it will at slower speeds if it is in need of servicing.

C. Henry wrote:

[The result you describe sounds like a primer only burn of a defective flashbulb. Many Sylvania flashbulbs had a "blue dot" on the top of the bulb that would turn pink if the bulb was defective due to age and/or damage. While contact corrosion is possible, a defective flashbulb, especially old ones, is a much more likely cause of the problem you report.

Got the flash with bulbs to work, but not at position 1 on the 4-way switch on the battery case. I've got a lot to learn about the Graflite. So far, I'm more confused than confident.

I've an old Pentax speedlight I may rig to work on my camera. I think all I'll need is its PC connector plugged into the camera's 3-hole flash connectors at the bottom right. I figured which of the three holes does what. This would eliminate the need for bulbs of any age.

Thanks for your help,

Bart

The switch should be set at "N" for single flash unit and solenoid shutter release. The numbered positions are for setting up multiple flash units.
If you have access to a "Graflite Instruction Manual" check pages 11 through 15 for a complete discussion of this.

C. Henry

http://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=5114

Were you able to get the service manual for the Graflite as well as the Instruction manual?

You may be able to find this cord at your local high end/pro camera store
http://www.paramountcords.com/proddetail.asp?prod=hf-pf and it is all you need if your Y cord is good.

Or see their Graflex page
http://www.paramountcords.com/graflex.asp

45PSS wrote:

http://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=5114 Were you able to get the service manual for the Graflite as well as the Instruction manual?

Yes, and it helped me understand how that flash worked.

Yikes; this 4x5's a lot more complicated than the 2x3 Century I owned some 40+ years ago. But I'm learning, thanks to you and others in this forum.

How do I put one of the series 6 filters in the lens? Couldn't find anything on doing that in any manual or online sites. The tiny flange on the lens hood/cocking part will hold it it, but I gotta get apart first. Thanks for any help.

Best wishes,

Bart