Hello,

Can someone give me a brief run-through of using the flash on the Speed Graphic?

I have a Graflex flash gun with a 5 inch right angle attachment (I have some Press 25 bulbs).

Can I use regular D batteries? How many flashes have I got before the guide numbers become innacurate and I have to change batteries?

Does the red button on the flash gun fire the flash and trip the shutter via the sych. cord (and solenoid when using front shutter)?

What is the rotating selector on the flash gun? (N, 1, 2)?

What is changed by loosening the screw and sliding the reflecor forward from the "normal" position? Just the angle of material covered by the flash, or are exposure adjustments also necessary?

What are my options for battery packs (if any)?

What is the highest shutter speed I can use with flash when I am using the focal plane shutter?

Thanks,

Keith

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ASpeedGraphic on 2006-05-15 20:06 ]</font>

Keith, you need to do some serious reading for yourself. A lot of these basic questions are answered in the articles presented on the main Graflex.org page. You can find additional information about your flash by reviewing a Graflite Flash Manual which you can find at:

http://www.southbristolviews.com/

Just look on the left side for Graflex manuals.

I love photography, but boy, do I hate dealing with photographers...

I have tried to read the website. It is very difficult to get through. It is unclearly written and poorly edited. A lot of the instructions are difficult to decipher. I have no problems with understanding properly written technical procedures. I am used to having to decipher bad instructions and figure things out for myself (after all, I spent 8 years as an operator on submarine nuclear power plants). I am not lazy. I simply find the information on this site to be in need of some fine tuning. There are discussions on the site of using a flash, and shutter synch. speeds and such, but it is not - to me - worth the trouble and stress of wading through unclear and poorly organized writings in order to anwser a few basic questions that can be figured out through a simple exchange with someone else. These cameras are new to me. I have never used a flash anything like this, or a camera with such a huge shutter curtain! I assumed that things would be slightly different, so I wanted to get a handle on some basics before I started burning through film and bulbs. After attempting to learn what I could by reading, I became frustrated and came here. Also note that I did not have the camera in front of me, and had not even really tinkered with it yet. I also prefer to learn things through dialogues with people, rather than by internet research. Please consider these factors before you make assumptions and recommendations of what I need to do. Everybody learns in different ways. I am not intimidated by those who have more knowledge than I do, and I am not afraid or embarrassed to ask them for information on everthing that I feel I need (no matter how basic) to synthesize my own understanding of the topic.

Keith

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ASpeedGraphic on 2006-05-18 15:14 ]</font>

Keith,
Go to the web sit listed in the previous post and download the pdf file Graflite flash (left plane-graflex manuals-Graflite flash) for reference and it is easier to read when on your hard drive as you do not habve to wait for the next page to download as on dial up.

Quote:

I have a Graflex flash gun with a 5 inch right angle attachment (I have some Press 25 bulbs). Can I use regular D batteries? How many flashes have I got before the guide numbers become innacurate and I have to change batteries? Does the red button on the flash gun fire the flash and trip the shutter via the sych. cord (and solenoid when using front shutter)? What is the rotating selector on the flash gun? (N, 1, 2)? What is changed by loosening the screw and sliding the reflecor forward from the "normal" position? Just the angle of material covered by the flash, or are exposure adjustments also necessary?

You have NOT stated which battery case you have 2772 or 2773. Put your standard Duracell 1.5V "D" cell in with the + to the bulb socket in the proper number to fill your battery case.

Attach a Volt meter to the case(-) and (+) to the center of the bulb socket, set swithc to <B>N</B> and PRESS the <font color=red> red</font> button, volt meter should read 3 Volts for the 2772 and 4.5Volts for the 2773. If voltages are NOT correct remove the batteries and clean the contacts in the flash.

Guide number of the flash bulb will not be affected by the batteries, they will either fire the bulb or they won't.

The rotating selector swithc determines which plugs on the flash that will have battery power applied, refer to manual page 15 for more information (confusion?) Usually you will operate with it in the N position.

page 9 of the manual (not pdf file page number) states that the 5 inch reflector gives 60 degree coverage at the normal position and that foward is for "spot", assume 30 to 45 degree coverage.

Do not point the flash bulbs at one eyes and fire the bulb as your vision will be impaired for a while and the spots may not go away for many days.

Contact me via the private message function for requirements to obtain a complete Graflite service manual from the mid 60's if desired.

Charles

_________________
Graflex Corp.was a <font color=white>(silent)</font> supporter of Rain Forest Devastation.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2006-05-18 18:26 ]</font>

Keith,

Part of the reason for pushing you to get the manual is there a many varibles that are difficult to cover in a forum like this.

Front shutter: Is your front shutter synchronized or are you using a solenoid? The wiring diagram is different for each.

Are yo planning on using the focal plane shutter?

There are three different types of front shutters, most will work with bulbs, one (Supermatic X and Graflex X) will not. Which shutter do you have?

You mentioned synchronizing to the focal plane shutter. While not impossible to do, it will be expensive. Normal flash bulbs have a relatively sharp climb to a peak output and drop off just as quickly. This works fine for leaf shutters that are completely open at one point, but makes for bad exposures on a focal plane shutter because the FP shutter is traveling as the light from the bulb is rising and falling.

The only way out is to find FP type bulbs that burn slightly longer and have a flat output. Even then you'll be limited to certain shutter speeds (most very high) and the guide numbers will be much lower compared to regular #5 or press 25s. And #26FP bulbs run 2 to 3X over common #5s.

The rotary switch allows alll sorts of scenarios with using extensions (non powered bulb flash units) multiple flash units and even a "hot shot" battery when setting off a string of bulbs. 99.9% of the time you'll be using one flash and one bulb and it'll be set on N

The red button is an "open flash" button and if using a solenoid to synchronize, is the way you fire both the flash and the camera shutter. If your front shutter is sync'd, and you have a solenoid, you can wire it to trip the shutter but still have the shutter sync the flash.

Always use fresh batteries in the battery case. That said I doubt you'll run out of battery power before you run out of flash bulbs or film. I think you'll also find three D cells is more than enough weight to carry around and a second tethered battery won't be necessary.

I leave my reflector in the normal position. It's hot enough as it is.

Les