I am using a 4x5 Crown Graphic. I just found a 90mm WA lens but I'm not sure if it is correct for my camera. It is mounted in a Super Graphic lens board and is physically smaller than my 135 mm lens. Specifically, it is a Graflex optar W.A. f/6.8 No. G41178N 3 1/2" (90mm) in a Graphex Full Syncromatic shutter by Wollensak. It has speeds T thru 400, a bipost flash connector and flash selections of M, M (red), F-X and Off. Its OD at the speed dial is 2 1/16" Can I use it? Thanks, Jim

Since you haven't tried it on your camera, I'm guessing you also don't have it in-hand...

But, there's no reason why you can't use it on a Crown. The lensboards are exactly the same size and the same lens was used on Crowns. It's basically the 'standard' wide lens for the Crown/Speed/Super/View cameras...

Now if it's in a true Super electric release lensboard, it will have an annoying little piece that will hang out of the bottom of the board. I used one of these for a while with a pice of tape on the bottom to hold it in place. That's the mechanical linkage to the electric release. Won't hurt anything, but I was worried about a light leak (no need to worry)... If you get the lens and don't like the Super board, you could easily swap it out to someone with a Super,or I would suppose since I've been looking for one for a while now

So, yes, get the lens. It will work fine...

Thanks for the info. I sure would like to swap this Super lens board for a standard Pacemaker type. It looks good and comes with a P-5 Super cam. If anyone is interested, drop me a line at jgstafford@sbcglobal.net Thanks, Jim

The 90WA Optar was made by Wollensak and is the same as the Raptar version I believe. You may find that where it lives on the rails makes it awkward to use much movement, and I shoot mine with the bed in its normal position and leave a littel room to crop as a little bit of the front rails may show up at the bottom of your images. Dropping the bed with a 90 lens makes for an interesting array of focussing problems as the standard wants to live right at the hinge point, but you will find this out soon enough. I tend to set my front standard on part of the front and back rails as the rear on my Crown has some wiggle and runiing it out onto the front stiffens it up nicely. Also, these lenses were, and experience upholds this, meant to be stopped down past F11 or more as 6.8 merely assists in focussing, while coverage, depth of field and edge to edge sharpness will increase as you stop it down. Both my 90 and 65 wide Raptars require a littel patience when focussing as they have an evasive sweet spot. A good focussing loupe may assist this, mine aint so hot. Have fun,
Stephen

Thanks for the info Stephen, I took it out for the first time this morning and every thing you've said is right on. I didn't notice the rails in the frame but we'll see what turns up on the neg. Jim

Also, I found I can mount my camera upside down on my center post, litteraly under the tripod, and use the front standard rear tilt as forward tilt etc, without dropping the bed. Nice to be up high on some platform for this doing landscapes.
Stephen

I never felt safe with the idea of mounting the camera under the post that way, but I know people do it...

Now, if you mount your camera upside down, is the GG image right-side up?

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-12-24 21:43 ]</font>

trouble's a comin:

a. Depends which way you look at things.

b. wiggle wont go away; it's forever

c. When the camera is upside, you can't make the image right side up, but you can flip the lens board 180, or turn the lens 90 deg, so it feals more normal.

d. I am a lefty, so do things all wrong anyway...

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-12-24 21:44 ]</font>

Hey, thanks for all the tips. Yep, I got two rails on the neg. Next time out I'll try to drop it as you suggested. Jim