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[rsdean]

I noticed that the back of my Pacemaker is starting to show signs of corrosion, on the left side of the ground glass holder. (Spring back.) Is there any easy* way of arresting this and repainting the affected parts? I probably can't manage the black crackle paint...

Rob Dean
*Laborious would be OK, too, as long as fairly straightforward.

[RichS]

I've had quite a few pieces with the corrosion. I can't say for long term, but I usually give it a good brushing with a brass brush to remove as much as I can and then paint it. I haven't worried about the crackle finish yet. That can easily be done if you don't mind repainting a large area as it works best sprayed. So I use an automotive touch-up paint that comes in small jars at the auto store. It's worked great so far, but I have no idea if it's really preventing any further corrosion? Maybe Rustoleum would be better?


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[disemjg]

If the corrosion is extensive, be sure to remove the back from the camera body as there is probably corrosion umder it, and it needs to be fixed. The brass brush mentioned in the earlier reply is good to clean off spots that have corrosion. I use Krylon semi-matte spray on large pieces, or brushing lacquer on small spots.

[45PSS]

A brass or stainless steel brush on a variable speed Dremel works great. The advantage is less elbow grease and if the corrosion is spreading under the paint its easier to get at, paint in non corroded areas will not come off as easily.
Charles

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[bertsaunders]

Aluminum and steel are not compatables, so in many cases, a white looking powder appears on the aluminum parts....steel screws often freeze solid in tapped holes! WD40 will remove the powder, and in most cases, free the screws, you will still in most cases have to do follow with brushes or cloth....it also will remove glue residue from masking tapes and stick on labels.....as always, dont use it to drowned the item, cause a "little bit will do-ya!" Bert

[troublemaker]

I have been working on aluminum sialboat rigs for years, and the big problme is dissimilar metals as mentioned above. for those who plan to keep and preserve for longevity, there are various products one can apply to fasteners that help prevent corrosive bonding that ofetn ends in broken screw heads and lot sof cussing. The cheapest and least preventative way to go is a littel heavy grease. We also use lanolin paste, which is widely available and comes in a handy little tub at places like marine stores. There is a product called alumilastic that i like but have not been able to find lately. It looks a littel like a never sieze but is more like calking paste. The best product i currently know of and use on all our high end projects is something called tef-gel. it is sticky, gooey, and goes a long way, and is about as tenacious as anything i have ever got my fingers in. However, the stuff is expensive, and unless you have a boat, or a lot of cameras, be prepared to pay a hundred bucks for a tub!
I wouldn't recomend any kind of anti-seize product because they are all metal based, everything form graphite, old led-plate products, copper and or nickle etc...these may promote rather than hinder corrosion, thus the teflon based gels are supperb.
that's my two sense worth.
good luck gettign paint to stick after all that son-of-a-gun and lemon pledge, try a little acetone or MEK before applying paint.
steve

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[ariel]

a friend suggested naval jelly when i encountered the same problem.

i haven't tried it, but i did use some WD40 after brushing and sanding a little.

the corrosion has not come back since.